The Azores
July 8, 2001 Iona left Bermuda on May 23 with a
following breeze, headed for the Azores, some 1800+ miles to the east. The first few
days were uneventful and slow. Eventually the wind picked up and Iona was soon
romping along in 20+ kts of air, beating to windward in fair seas. This kept up for
about a week before the wind came from a more favorable direction. IONA did well and
the only problem we had was leaks. IONA had never been sailed this hard, this long
and as we stressed the boat, we flexed old caulking and small leaks developed around the
windows and hatches--nothing major--just annoying. Crissie slept in her foul-weather
gear for most of the 1800 miles because a leak developed over her bed, and rather than
fight it, decided to just let it drip. When IONA finally reached the Azores 17 days
after leaving Bermuda, there was quite a pile of wet clothes, towels, bedding, etc to go
to the laundry, as well as several windows to fix.
Crissie checked in with Herb, Southbound II, everyday for up to
the minute weather information, and she credits him with keeping her out of serious
sailing difficulties all the way across the ocean.
The Azores were wonderful. They were green, scenic, cool
and comfortable, as well as very welcoming to foreign sailors.
Boat maintenance was high on the list of things-to-do, but also a
visit to the famous Peters Sport Cafe in Horta as well as leaving IONA's "mark"
on the wall in Horta.
The ARC had organized cocktail parties and tours of Faial and
nearby Pico, as well as a sailing trip around the Azores. Iona didn't go on the
sailing trip because we had only just arrived and needed time to dry the boat and get
ready for the next leg. The Azores was the last time the entire ARC
fleet would be together. The fleet was splitting up here, after the start in Ponta
Delgada, with the majority heading up to Plymouth, England, and only six heading to Lagos,
Portugal.
The start of the last leg was from Ponta Delgada, about 12O
from Horta on the island of Sao Miguel.
Sao Miguel is the biggest island in the Azores group. Ponta
Delgada is the largest city on the island and also the largest city in the Azores, as well
as the capital, with a population of over 100,000 people. That represents about 51%
of the population of the Azores. The rest are spread out over the other 8 islands.
The Azores are volcanic. There are black sand beaches, and
parks surrounding lakes that are calderas of extinct volcanoes. The islands are lush
with vegetation, growing everything from bamboo and pineapples to hydrangeas that grow
wild along the roads to grapes for wine. Each island has its own "flavor"
and uniqueness.
Faial is probably the best known island for sailors because of
the town of Horta, with its famous painted wall, and unparalleled welcome for visiting
yachtsmen. The Cafe Sport has been welcoming sailors for over four generations,
beginning, according to family legend, with welcoming Joshua Slocum by the grandfather of
the present owner. The Cafe Sport guest books read like the "who's-who" of
sailing history, with names like Eric Tabarly, and PEN DUICK, Eric and Susan Hiscock with
WANDERER III, Francis Chichester on GIPSY MOTH, to mention some of the more famous
entries. Horta was indeed, a special place for Iona. It was one of those
places you read about but doubt you will ever visit then, bingo, there you are, right in
the thick of things.
From Horta we sailed down to Ponta Delgada where we continued to
get Iona ready for the next and last, leg of the trip--to mainland Portugal.
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